THE ICE WINE COMETH FROM THE GOOD LIFE “On a blustery late November day, winemaker Mark Wagner heads south through the hillsides overlooking Seneca Lake. He passes bare vineyards picked clean in the harvest a month before. A mile or so south of the winery, he turns off into a dirt lane. Wagner pulls a few grapes, tastes, and tosses a few to his dog, Max. These grapes – hanging on the vine in the face of the wind, birds and the approaching frost – are special. They’ll be turned into ice wine, a sweet nectarlike dessert drink. The Finger Lakes are a natural for ice wine production.”